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Author Topic: What are you climbing goals this season?  (Read 3288 times)
Roam Around
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« on: April 16, 2008, 11:21:07 AM »

I thought this would be interesting...

By the end of the season (novemberish) I'm hoping to be getting into 5.7 (trad) leading (currently 5.4 leader).  It'd be really cool to get to where I can consistently follow 5.10 without too much thrashing about.  

I want to tick several big snow climbs along the front range as well as at least a couple of multi-pitch trad routes that I followed last summer.

I'm hoping to get some class 3 routes on a couple of the 14ers in CO as well.

Big plans....

Should be a fun summer.
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Pennsy
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« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2008, 04:37:08 PM »

Nice thread.

I have a few specific goals. There are a few climbs down at Ralph Stover in Pa that I want to conquer. 2 are 5.8+ classics that have  kicked my butt last year. Last fall I was getting closer to the cruxes but just couldn't quite pull them. I'm hoping to nail them this spring. The other is a monster 5.10 called Phone Booth and I hope to nail it sometime this year.

I also want to do a lot more climbing in the Delaware Water Gap. It's so close to home and there are tons of trad routes there that I want to get familiar with. Hopefully, enough climbing there will pay dividends when I hit the Gunks where I want to bump up my lead grades this year. Leading High Exposure is high up on that list.
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Roam Around
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« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2008, 04:42:49 PM »

I've got a couple routes that spit me out last year that i need to get back to and complete clean.  I need to sit down and make a little tick list for myself!

High Ex is a stiff 7 isn't it?

You also need to come west there Pennsy - i'm gonna put your spork under a rock on top of Wind Ridge in Eldo and make you go get it.  :-p
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Pennsy
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« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2008, 05:05:05 PM »

High E is actually a 5.6 (last pitch 6+) but it's so freaking scary because it's so steep and exposed. I still laugh about the guide who was bringing up a client and encountered a party who were bailing. The guy said "I lead 5.10 back home but that (pointing up to the money pitch) is sick!"

Yeah yeah, I need to go west. I just wish I didn't hate travelling so much. I didn't get a new spork yet, so I guess there is hope.
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Roam Around
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« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2008, 11:47:11 AM »

I've heard the grades at the Gunks are generally pretty stiff.  Some people say the Eldo Canyon grades are all sandbags, but it's just that the old school grades have never been downgraded and thus some climbs can seem a bit stiffer than other, later developed areas.  those dudes from the 50's and 60's were badazz!
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Roam Around
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« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2008, 10:40:12 PM »

making progress!  Led my first 5.5 tonight after work - up to the Boulderado and got on Ho Hum to get loose, then moved over to Mons.  Climbed both of these on top rope before and thought they'd make fun leads.  Both take great gear all the way up.

Had a BLAST!
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precision
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« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2008, 09:46:16 AM »

You all suck ;) Being that you are close enuf 2 mntains to have a goal.

My climbing goal is to live near a place above sea level

If I can ever get beyond this terminal
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Roam Around
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« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2008, 10:29:29 PM »

Progress continues!

Onsighted a 5.6 at N. Table Mtn tonight - Kevin Spies the Line.  Felt relatively easy - felt good to clip the anchors clean too!

We then did the route with two or three variations on the top rope - had fun.

Dam, i love summertime!
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Pennsy
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« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2008, 05:26:05 PM »

Nice going Roamy!!
But hey, if 'Kevin spied the line' and provided you beta, you merely red-pointed. nyuk nyuk.

My goals have temporarily been adjusted because my partners have dissapeared. Crazypace can never get out to play and I haven't heard from the Monkee in months. Anybody hear from him?

The only leading I've done so far this year has been in the gym, but I'm still having a blast and improving. I'm climbing in the gym 2 nights a week and get outside whenever I can. I go to 3 climbing areas, all within 45 minutes from here. They're mostly single pitch top rope areas, but lots of variety and I've been lucky to bump into other people to climb with. Self belay is ok, but there's nothing like a live partner.
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Roam Around
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« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2008, 07:07:18 PM »

He (nor the guidebook) gave enuff beta to discount the onsight.  :)

Went to Castlewood Canyon today - didn't have a guide book and only had the vaugest descriptions of where routes were - made it difficult to locate things, but we did find "Caramel Corner" with the scariest 5.5 crux you could imagine and still keep the climb only 5.5 - led that.

Then after hanging a rope on what we thought to be a 9+ to play around on, we ALL (including the guy from the group next door who had just topped out on an 11a) got shut down - it wasn't 9 - more like 11c/d.  

After that folly, we moved down to the Neanderthal area and I led the 5.6 "Are You Experienced".  This one was a bit off-width, which I normally struggle with, but this one wasn't so bad.  All this is trad climbing, single pitch.  

I'm feeling pretty good about onsighting 5.6 on gear.

Pennsy, you should hit up the mountain project or rock climbing.com board and find you some dam partners man!  I've had good luck on mountainproject.com - i noticed that someone added a few routes in PA over the winter.

Or better yet - COME TO CO!
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Pennsy
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« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2008, 06:55:43 PM »

Sweet, Roamy!  You sir, are hooked, line and sinker.

Thanks for the update about Pa on Mountain Project. The last time I checked, there was nothing about Pa, and now I see they have my local crag, Ralph Stover SP, listed. Nice.

It's not a big deal about lack of trad partners. As long as I'm climbing something, I'm happy. I lead 2 routes in the gym tonight, one that I whipped off twice the last time I lead it, so I'm feeling pretty good.
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topying
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2009, 07:59:58 AM »

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